![]() ![]() ![]() Once you’ve done this, your volume should be mounted and you should be able to access your drive normally. Now, type ‘assign letter=G’ or whatever letter you want your volume to be. So for instance if your hd happened to be listed as Volume 3, you would type ‘select volume 3’. Next type ‘select volume x’ where x is the volume number for your volume. I usually find the hard drive by comparing Sizes, but it should also show your hard drive’s name under Label. Volume # Ltr Label FS Type Size Status Info.įind your hard drive in this list and note the volume number. It will list a number of volumes on the system in the form: In the new window, or the same one if a new one doesn’t pop up, then type ‘list volume’. Either find it in the Accessories folder or type cmd at the search. ![]() What I do to force it is follow these steps:Ĭlick start and open up a command line window. Users can take advantage of WDs Discovery and Backup software to help manage and back up their files as well. Not sure if I want to order on eBay or other site, check at home, and find the 2 Pin 1s connected.Sometimes my external drive fails to mount. It and comes formatted NTFS for Windows 8.1 and 10, but may be reformatted for other operating systems, and connects to your host system using an included micro-USB to USB Type-A cable. I could use an ohmmeter to check on an actual Y. The USB 2.0 hot (red) would need to run only to the UDB 3.0 B Micro hot (pin 1). I think, if such a cord is proper, the Pin 1 (red) of the USB 3.0 connector has to be separated from the Pin 1 of the USB 2.0 connector. I could see either or both the recorder and the power supply could be damaged if one tried to “fight” with the other. However, I am concerned about inadvertently connecting the 5V output of two distinct power supplies (One within the recorder, and the other an outside power supply). Then I just have to use a decent quality USB power supply. That would appear to work IF all power is supplied by the USB 2.0. If the drive is doing like a beeping noise or clicking noises it could be related to power issues I will suggest you to try an USB Booster Cable. On one end is a male USB 3.0 micro B connector. I do see on many sites including eBay, Y connectors that physically look like they do this. I cannot find any reference tor a version for the USB 3.0 Micro. WD Security and WD Drive Utilities software USB 3. Plus there seems to be no source for this exact part number. But this is not for the USB 3.0 micro B connector. The WD site notes one adapter, WDCA029RNN. One possible solution would be to use a Y connector, taking power from a separate USB power supply. Cannot find specs for the power requirements for a Passport Drive. The forum notes that the draw from the drive must be less than 900 mA. Looking on their forum support I found that the recorder may have been “fried” by trying to drive the passport. ![]() If I plug the drive directly into the recorder it worked fine for a while, then recently died. HD movies can be transferred in just seconds and help you save. The passport uses a USB 3.0 B micro input and came with a compatible USB 3.0 cord. Fast Speed: USB 3.0 Micro B Cable transfer super-speed is up to 5 Gbps, 10x faster than USB 2.0. I have a Homeworx digital recorder that writes onto my 1.5 TB Passport Ultra. ![]()
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